eyes down
A BUTCHER'S #35
A BUTCHER’S hook/look (Cockney rhyming slang)
underfoot
I featured SoHo’s granite sidewalk slabs in A Butcher’s #25 - meanwhile in Rome, there’s a lot to focus on underfoot as well as underground - too much in fact. From the original Roman roads (including wheel ruts) to the black cobblestones dating from the 15th/16th centuries (that last for centuries, unlike in New York), to the drains - even the drains are considered. And I haven’t got to the mosaics and the marble floors.
All in time - they’re well worth the attention. Here are some samples of what’s on my radar.
draining
so subtle, it’s easy to miss details - like these elegant drainage holes on the Spanish Steps.
you’ll be in room Xll
This one is too much! As easily read as a museum floor plan today, here’s a 3rd century AD floor mosaic of a diagrammatic map, showing numbered rooms, probably part of the thermal baths found near the station. (green tiles for water)
I recommend installing the Substack app (free) on your phone. It’s easier, works well and looks better! Or online here - browse away!
eyes down for another round
Depending on where you are in Italy, you could be playing with a different looking pack of cards, as many regions have their own. Although the ‘French pack’ of 52 with hearts, spades, diamonds, clubs, is known by nearly everyone, the classic playing cards that Romans use is the ‘Piacentine’ pack. The proportions and suits are closer related to tarot cards and only 40 cards. Interesting… what’s missing? no 8s,9s or 10s. Don’t need them. Also, no queens - instead of Jack, Queen, King there’s the Knave, Horseman & King. Strangely the horseman isn’t face on, but is seen from behind.
The line up of suits makes perfect logical sense really:
spade (swords) = spades
coppe (cups)= hearts
denari (coins) = diamonds
bastone (clubs) = clubs. The clubs are pretty spectacular gnarly wooden cudgels
Of course these cards have their own games, mostly tactical, which have been great to learn, as playing cards has always been a part of the culture here. It takes a bit to get your head around the different card values - depending on what you’re playing, the 3s might have the most value and generally the suit of denari (coins) is the more important suit. The 7 of denari is known as the sette bello, or “beautiful seven”.
tuck in*
stylist? touch up? no need! I have a number of pretty alarming Italian kid’s birthday postcards - the state of this kid’s hand(!) and what are those things on the cake? I’ve been informed that they are likely amaretti biscuits and not supplì or polpettine (small meatballs) as I initially thought!
*English for ‘eat up’ - tuck into something, informal to eat something eagerly
